To Mt. Rinjani

November 14,15,16, 2016
Gunung Rinjani (3726 Meters)

When loosely planning for this trip, and seeing how diverse the topography of Indonesia is, we said to ourselves it we should also visit a tall volcano; as well as beaches, and jungles.  We passed by the opportunity in Java and Bali, but decided we should try for the volcano trek in Lombok.  We were planning to contact some trekking companies while we were hanging out at the beach. Instead, after we were approached at the ferry port upon arrival and offered a fair price for a longer trek at this slower season.  Well, change of plans!  It's good to remain flexible.

We were whisked by taxi up to the small town of Senaru where the Lenk Trekking has its base and put up for the night in a simple but clean bungalow.  The next morning we met our guide and the eight other trekkers in our party.  Next we were shuttled to the neighboring town to start the 37 km (23 mile),  3 day summit- crater loop.  (Total ascent: 3146 m (10,321 ft) Total descent: 3596 m (11, 798 ft.)

We backpack some at home in Colorado, but we were still thoroughly humbled by the the humidity, quick elevation gain from sea level, and the often rough trail.  

We significantly slimmed down our travel packs and trusted the 5 porters to carrying the provisions, extra water, tents, sleeping bags, and (minimalist) pads. At the beginning of the trip each porter carries approximately 30 kilos of gear, balanced over a shoulder on the ends of a wood or bamboo pole.  They walk the entire loop in simple flip flops with smiles on their faces.

The Sembalun Lawang approach, which is closer to the summit, begins in high grasslands reminiscent of lush volcanoes images in Hawaii.

At meal breaks we are often joined by troops of Long-tailed Grey Macaque monkeys looking for leftovers. 

About half way up to the rim of the volcano, we enter into mixed conifer forest. 

Near the rim, where we would camp for the night, the trees thinned to high chaparral, and the air cooled. 

We (mostly the porters) set up camp, and ate a hearty coconut green curry for dinner as we watched the "super moon" rise above the clouds below.  We turned in early in anticipation of our 2 a.m. wake up for the summit climb.

The climb up to the summit along the ridge is entertaining because much of the walking is in loose volcanic sand and cinders.

The air was chilly.  The moon was bright enough to light our path.

Back down at the the base camps along the rim, etc.  the human / tourist impact is undeniable.  The areas are strewn with litter, empty butane stove canisters and waste.  We are very disturbed seeing this at a National Park, but also must own it because it is a side effect of tourism in this remote area.  (We believe our porters carried out all of the non compostable waste from our party.)

After a longer breakfast we broke camp and began the steep climb down to the lake in the caldera.The trails are eroded from rain and heavy use.  Occasionally, in more exposed areas we saw the remnants of hand rails and other park infrastructure.  Remnants!

Near the drainage for the lake is a nice hot springs pool for soaking with a waterfall.

After lunch we started the climb out to our second camp along the rim.

On the way out the next day we got to glimpse Ebony leaf monkeys in the jungle canopy. The Senaru side (which hosts more days walks) tended to be more free of litter and had identification signs posted on many of the larger trees.

After leaving the park the journey passed through shade grown coffee,  banana, and cocoa bean farms.  Exausted we arrived back in Senaru to our trekking center which overlooks rice paddys.